Lisbon has to be on almost everyone’s bucket list. It’s one of the most captivating cities in Europe, with a vibe unlike anywhere else.
There is so much to see and do, amazing culinary options, wonderful people, and it’s easy on the budget too. Considering all of this, can you enjoy the Portuguese capital in two or three days? Is it worth going to Lisbon if you only have a weekend?
The answer is yes, but then it’s also no. You will have a blast and can see most of the major sights in two days, we certainly did. However, it will be a bit breathless and you will likely leave wanting to come back to soak up the atmosphere in a more relaxed and leisurely manner.
In the meantime, if like us you only have a few days available to spend in Lisbon, these are our top 9 tips for how to get the best out of your weekend in the fabulous capital of Portugal.
Table of Contents
SATURDAY
1. Ride Tram 28
Tram 28 is iconic for two reasons:
Firstly, while it is a functioning public transport, you could hardly design a better route for popular districts such as Alfama, Baixa, and Esteela.
The second reason is the trams themselves. They are beautifully restored yellow single–carriage, wood-panelled trolleys that seat just 20 passengers, although the total capacity can more than double with people standing.
While these trams make perfect tourist vehicles, they are also highly practical. It is doubtful that there are any modern trams that would handle the twisty, narrow and steep hills of Lisbon as well as these classics do.
I recommend that you ride the entire route, from one end to the other, which takes a little under an hour.
It can become pretty busy between 10am and 4pm, so I recommend riding it fairly early or later in the day. The great thing is that while we first rode Tram 28 for the sake of riding on it, by the end of our short trip we had used it several times for its primary purpose, as a means of transport.
It’s often standing room only, so if you can’t get a seat, the best place to stand is at the very rear of the tram, where you get great views. Just watch your valuables as pickpockets are common.
2. Take in Praca do Comercio
Like Edinburgh, Lisbon has a new town and old town, and again similar to the Scottish capital “new” is relative. The Lisbon new town dates back to the 18th Century. At the heart of the Baixa Pombalina (Pombaline Downtown) area are two massive public squares: Rossio and Praca do Comercio.
Commerce Plaza, to use its name in English, is the more appealing of the two and definitely a Lisbon icon. It is a huge, paved square, flanked on three sides by symmetrical buildings and on the southern end it opens up to the Targus river, which gives the square a free and airy feeling.
The square is bordered by several cafes, restaurants and other businesses, including the city’s oldest restaurant Cafe Martinho Da Arcada. It’s worth trying this café for the atmosphere and surroundings, even if the food is distinctly average. Dominating the centre of the square is a statue of King Jose I on horseback. If you look closely, you’ll notice that his horse is crushing snakes in its path.
At the far end, opposite the Targus is the magnificent Rua Augusta Arch, built to commemorate the city’s reconstruction after the 1755 earthquake. Pass through the arch on Rua Augusta, along which you’ll find dozens of shops and restaurants.
3. Marvel at the Views from Elevador de Santa Justa
As you head along Rua Augusta from Praca do Comercio towards Rossio Square, you will pass the historic Elevador de Santa Justa, the only vertical lift still in operation in Lisbon. Designed by a student of Gustav Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame), there is certainly something familiar about the wrought iron construction.
Like Tram 28, this is a tourist attraction that was originally designed to be an entirely functional mode of transportation. The ride takes only a couple of minutes and there can be long lines, especially during the peak summer months. So, if you want to avoid the wait and close proximity to other sweaty tourists, take the stairs by the ruins of the Carmo Convent. This will save you €5 each and you will still get the same amazing views at the top.
Whether you take the lift or the stairs, for a small fee, about €1.50, you can access the viewing platform for even better vistas. At the top you find yourself in beautiful Largo do Carmo (Carmo Square), where you can enjoy a drink or snack in stunning surroundings.
4. Stroll the Bairro Alto District and Ride a Funicular
After savouring your refreshments at Carmo Square, it’s time to stroll in the general direction of Bairro Alto or “upper neighbourhood.” The exact route doesn’t matter as it’s so pretty, so just wander around and enjoy it.
Bairro Alto is wonderfully peaceful during the day and in the evening is transformed into a vibrant scene of bars and fado restaurants. This means that while the area is packed with tourists after dark, during daylight hours you will share the ambiance with just a handful of likeminded souls.
Don’t miss São Pedro de Alcântara Viewpoint. It has neatly landscaped terraces with fabulous views across the city and of the castle. There are a couple of kiosks selling drinks and light snacks too. For the best sunset views head to Santa Catarina Viewpoint, which seems to be more popular with locals than with visitors.
When it’s time to head back down, you can take the Bica Funicular on Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo. Alternatively, as it is a proper street, you can simply walk down the sidewalk and marvel at the moving sardine can of tourists packed in the funicular as it passes every few minutes.
Another option is Glória Funicular, which will take you along an outdoor street art gallery to Restauradores Square.
5. Soak up the Atmosphere in Alfama
Alfama is the oldest part of the city. It surrounds the castle and what was once the poorest and roughest neighbourhood has been transformed into a fashionable area full of artists and visitors. The best thing to do is to just walk around, get lost and see what you encounter.
The cobbled streets are gorgeous as they wind and twist up and down the hills through a mishmash of old buildings. If the thought of a tough few hours hill-walking turns you off, simply take the 28 Tram and get off a couple of stops after you pass the castle and then your meandering stroll will be all downhill!
For some more focused history, Castelo de Sao Jorge is definitely worth a little of your time. However, be sure to take in the views from a Miradouro or viewpoint. Our favourite was Miradouro de Santa Luzia. It’s a pretty garden tucked behind a church of the same name and offers some of the best views in Lisbon.
In the evening eat at one of the wonderful restaurants. Despite primarily targeting tourists, they provide decent quality and good value food. Many of them include traditional fado music, usually sung by a local woman accompanied by a classical guitarist.
SUNDAY
6. Take a Tram to Belem Tower and Padrão dos Descobrimentos
For 16th and 17th Century naval adventurers, Belem Tower was their last sight of Lisbon when they left and a wonderful welcome when they returned.
Today you can buy a ticket and join the long line to tour the tower, or simply enjoy the tower and views from the neighbouring park. The peaceful park that surrounds the tower on its landside has lots of shady trees for you take a moment to rest and enjoy the clean air.
Tickets for the tower cost €6 and you can buy a single ticket, which will also allow you to enter Jeronimos Monastery for €12.
After Belem Tower, you can make the short walk to Padrão dos Descobrimentos. The Monument of the Discoveries, as it translates in English, is a vast modern celebration of the Portuguese age of discovery.
7. Marvel at Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
To experience the physical manifestation of the word extravagant, take the 10-minute walk from the Monument of the Discoveries to Jerónimos Monastery. So far, you haven’t visited any churches, despite Lisbon boasting of some fabulous clerical structures. The one religious building that you simply mustn’t miss is the 16th Century Mosteiro dos Jerónimos.
It comprises two main buildings the church and the cloisters. If you stand at the far end, the interior of the church seems to go on into breath-taking infinity. As symbol of the magnificence of the Catholic Church, it somehow seems to surpass even St Peter’s in Rome.
The cloisters are magnificent too. Each column has its own unique carvings, all with nautical themes such as ropes, coral and sea monsters.
8. Savour the Original Pastéis de Belém
Close to the monastery is the home of the original Pastel de Belém, the classic Portuguese egg custard tart or nata. While you can get similar pastéis de nata all across Lisbon, and many are just as good, Pastéis de Belém serves the real deal in terms of heritage.
When the enterprising monks in the nearby monastery faced financial ruin in the 19th Century, they invented and started selling these delicious pastries. Unfortunately, further financial misfortune resulted in them selling the recipe to the owner of a sugar company. He opened the bakery that to this day is run by his descendants, who keep the recipe a closely guarded secret.
In the summer months it can get incredibly busy so get there early. There is a good reason why Pastéis de Belém has more Trip Advisor reviews than any other restaurant on earth!
9. Time Out Market
There is something about Time Out Markets and similar vibrant food halls that attract us wherever we go. The eclectic collections of craft food stands may not be strictly authentic, but they are incredibly “real.“
What I mean by this is that you can choose from a variety of local and international cuisines, all prepared using fresh local ingredients by chefs from the surrounding area, even if they can trace their heritage back to cultures in different countries and continents.
Most Time Out Markets have an especially lively after work ambiance and this one is no exception. The Market in Portugal is a particular favourite for us due to the sheer choice, great value and vibrant atmosphere. It’s a great place to visit on the weekend too.
We took a bus from Jerónimos Monastery, which dropped us off right by the Time Out Market.
Of course, you can get great food all over the city, especially seafood. Our recommendation, and what worked well for us, is to take yourself a few steps away from the main tourist areas for fantastic food, great value and super friendly service.
We loved Lisbon and can’t wait to go back. Next time we will stay longer and avoid the peak tourist season, when it gets super busy. And remember that Portugal is easy on the pocket and Lisbon is no exception.
I strongly recommend that you get a Lisboa Card or a prepaid multi-ride ticket from one of the yellow or blue machines or in a window at the stations. Not only will rides cost less than buying tickets from drivers, but the ability to jump on a tram, bus or funicular and just see where it takes you is priceless. We even used ours to take the train to Sintra, but that’s a story for another day.
Have you ever been to Lisbon? Is it on your bucket list? We think that it should be. Let us know what you think.
Author
Nick Abbott
Hi, I’m Nick. Visiting foreign countries has been an important part of my life since my parents moved to Kano in Nigeria in 1977. Since then, as both a military officer and in later jobs I have enjoyed the huge privilege of being exposed to many different countries and cultures.
I am delighted to be able to support my wife Monique and Yes2Yolo primarily by contributing travel articles, providing editing and proof-reading services and being a general sounding board.
