Accra, Ghana is an amazingly vibrant city that you will enjoy best if you immerse yourself with the people and culture rather than sightsee as a tourist. A diverse city, you will find people of many different ethnic, linguistic and religious groups.
If, like us, you live in Kingston, Jamaica, it will all seem strangely familiar; if ever two cities should be twinned it’s Accra and Kingston, talk about separated at birth!
Nevertheless, you should do some sightseeing while in the capital of Ghana so here are our top six recommendations for an action-packed day or leisurely weekend in Accra.
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1. Independence Square
Also known as Black Star Square, Independence Square is vast: locals claim that it is the second largest public square in the world (although later research revealed that this is probably not quite true).
The stands can accommodate 30,000 spectators for the major military and civic parades that are held there; although for most of the time, these are empty which only seems to make the square seem even more impressive. Apparently, in 1998 more than half a million people gathered there to welcome US President Bill Clinton.
The main attractions within the square are Independence Arch, Memorial of the Unknown Soldier and Black Star Gate. If you only take one picture in Accra, it has to be by Black Star Gate. It would be like going to Paris and not taking a selfie with the Eiffel Tower! The black star is a powerful symbol of Pan-Africanism and the fight against colonialism. For a small fee, you can climb to the top of the Black Star Gate for a great view of the entire square and surrounding area.
2. Kwame Nkrumah Park
The Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park & Mausoleum, to give its full name, is a short 5-miniute drive from Independence Square, or you can walk it in about 15 minutes if you prefer. Despite what the Lonely Planet guide says, the park is quite well maintained and has a sort of reto-futuristic vibe.
The site is dominated by the mausoleum which is covered in Italian marble and is topped by the black star. Inside are the remains of President Nkrumah and his controversial wife. The approach to the mausoleum is bordered by reflecting pools that contain fountains and statues blowing flutes of welcome.
The museum is small, but you may find yourself spending a fair amount of time learning about Ghanian independence and the turbulent life of Dr Nkrumah, especially his later years; this is shown in a quite graphic way by his original statue which is displayed in two pieces following its decapitation during the 1966 cout d’etat.
3. W.E.B. Du Bois Memorial Centre
By now, you may well find that you have gained an appetite for learning more about Pan-African culture and history. If that happens, you should make a short detour to the W.E.B. Du Bois Centre. Mr Du Bois is buried here, at what was his final home.
The small museum is extremely interesting and informative. Do take a guided tour, as you will learn so much more about Du Bois’ life and work. For a Jamaican, learning about his initial collaboration and later conflict with Marcus Garvey was fascinating.
There is a small craft shop and a famer’s market on site, and, if you are lucky, you may get to see a Ghanaian wedding taking place. To learn more, go to the the W.E.B Du Bois Centre website.
4. James Town
The primary photo opportunities in James Town are the lighthouse and adjacent fort, but these are not the reason to visit this vibrant community in Accra. It is a relatively impoverished area where humble shacks mingle with run-down, but still beautiful, colonial era buildings.
Fishing is the primary industry, with hundreds of small boats on the beaches around the informal communities. It’s intriguing to wander around and, if you can look beyond the obvious poverty, get a feel for the lives of ordinary Ghanaians. You may find yourself pestered by locals and the best way to get around this is to hire one to be your guide. If you fancy some refreshments, don’t miss the James Town Café. You can find out more from their Facebook page.
5. Makola Market
We thought that Coronation Market in Kingston was big, but it’s tiny in comparison to Ghana’s largest open-air market. Makola Market is an exhausting place, but it’s enthralling to spend time there.
You can make a brief visit, to get a feel for it, or spend the best part of an entire day and really absorb the unique atmosphere of a West African market. You can get almost anything there and the market is usually extremely crowded.
It’s amazing how quickly several hours pass at Makola as your senses are bombarded by constant and overlapping sights, sounds and smells, so make sure you are wearing comfortable clothes, shoes and, if you’re a baldy like Nick, a hat. There is a good craft market in the area and Monique got a cute and obviously African bag. Don’t forget to try some real local food, just don’t expect to have any cutlery to eat it with.
6. Artists Alliance Gallery
If you have any interest in art, the Artists Alliance Gallery is an absolutely amazing place to visit. There are three floors of paintings, sculptures and crafts, many of which are for sale at very reasonable prices. Quite frankly it’s a better visit than a museum. Entry is free, and you won’t be pressured to buy, although it’s tough to leave with nothing.
While it was no surprise that Nick picked up some paintings, which are now on display in our Jamaican home, it was shocking that he decided to abandon his usual black and grey t-shirts in favour of a bright orange shirt.
To be honest, Accra is not a city to visit if conventional tourist attractions are your main interest because you go there for the vibe and experience (and other parts of this wonderful country). However, when you are in Accra, it’s worth taking the time to explore and experience our six favourite things to do.
What did you think of this article on Accra, did I miss anything you needed to know? Let me know below in the comments.
Author
Nick Abbott
Hi, I’m Nick. Visiting foreign countries has been an important part of my life since my parents moved to Kano in Nigeria in 1977. Since then, as both a military officer and in later jobs I have enjoyed the huge privilege of being exposed to many different countries and cultures.
I am delighted to be able to support my wife Monique and Yes2Yolo primarily by contributing travel articles, providing editing and proof-reading services and being a general sounding board.
Hi Nick,
Thanks for the work you do.
I thoroughly enjoyed this article on Ghana. It explains a lot and gives a great guide for anyone planning to visit.
The Minister of Tourism was a guest speaker at my awards program many years ago, but I have lost touch. Any ideas how to reconnect?
This year – Oct 21 and 22 will be the 40th Anniversary of Minority Enterprise Development Week (MEDWeek), and we are hoping to have a leader from Ghana as our Awards Gala Speaker on the 22nd.
Would love to connect with you and Monique. Please advise. Thanks
Thank you Marie for reading our article on Accra, Ghana. Monique will send you a private message and we can connect that way. Cheers, Nick