While it may be impractical, if not totally impossible for a North American to spend a weekend in Europe, it’s easy and affordable to to have a wonderfully European style weekend without leaving the continent. The answer is Quebec City, the most uniquely French part of North America.
We have many highly successful friends, mostly immigrants, who live in Toronto, but who have never visited Quebec City. This is unfortunate, as they are missing a truly amazing experience. We’ve made it our mission to encourage all our friends in Ontario to plan a weekend getaway at least once to Quebec City.
In August we took the train to Quebec City and enjoyed a fantastic weekend in the capital city of the province of Quebec. I’m slightly ashamed to admit that despite living in Canada for a total of 10 years, and having visited Montreal on many occasions, this was my first time in Quebec City. There are, of course, many fabulous things to do in and around Quebec City, and we identified ten amazing attractions for a packed and memorable weekend in Quebec City.
Table of Contents
1. Walk Old Town Quebec
While our budget didn’t quite run to the iconic Chateau Frontenac, we stayed just across Place d’Armes at the wonderful Hôtel Manoir Morgan. If you want to stay somewhere with great service, large rooms in a fantastic location, I highly recommend it. This meant that we were based in the heart of old town Quebec City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
As you stroll along the ancient, cobbled streets of the upper town, you’ll see a huge variety of architecture built up over 400 years. Historic churches, specialty shops, historical murals, small squares and cute little parks abound. You can also walk the city ramparts, as Quebec is the only walled city in the USA or Canada. Here you also have an opportunity to climb beautifully restored, if inoperative, cannons of both British and French origin.
2. Take Tea at Chateau Frontenac
The skyline of Quebec City is dominated by the legendary Chateau Frontenac, a luxury hotel that was opened in 1893. It claims to be the most photographed hotel in the world and this is probably true, as its image instantly identifies Quebec in the same way that the Eifel Tower denotes Paris.
A great place to get a fabulous picture of the hotel is Montmorency Park. Not only are the views spectacular, but you are far more likely to snap an Instagram ready shot as you will be away from most of the tourists.
If like us, you can’t afford to stay at Chateau Frontenac, it is worth taking some time to tour the stunning lobby area. You can, of course, enjoy a meal at one of the wonderful restaurants. The hotel serves an amazing afternoon tea every Saturday. There is a good chance that you will waddle out an hour or so later having feasted on dainty sandwiches and the freshest scones. You won’t need much for dinner in the evening. If you fancy this, be sure to make a reservation in advance.
3. Marvel at the Views from Dufferin Terrace
Located next to Chateau Frontenac is a sweeping wooden walkway named after former Governor General of Canada, Lord Dufferin. On one side you get fabulous views from way above the St Lawrence River, while on the other, you get a close-up of the hotel. If you think it’s imposing from a distance, wait until you look up from this close by!
In the summer you’ll be entertained by musicians and street performers. You can also climb under the terrace and visit the, Forts-et-Châteaux-Saint-Louis archaeological crypt. Here you can explore the remains of the homes of the French and British Governors, who ruled over Quebec when it was a colony of these European powers.
If you visit during winter you can take a thrilling toboggan ride on the wooden run that has changed little since it originally opened in 1884. We only got to see the ride in its slightly forlorn summer guise, but I am definitely going back one January soon, just so I can see if this is half as much fun as it looks.
4. Enjoy a Moment in Basilica Cathedral Notre-Dame de Québec
A few steps away from Place d’Armes is the oldest church in Canada, Basilica Cathedral Notre-Dame de Québec (Our Lady of Quebec). It was originally built in 1647 and was twice largely destroyed by fire and rebuilt, most recently in 1922. In 2014 a holy door was constructed, one of only eight in the world. Like all holy doors, it’s currently sealed shut, but if you visit in 2025, you’ll find it opened in celebration of the next Roman Catholic jubilee.
The interior is lavishly decorated, much of it in gilt, with some lovely stained-glass windows. While the main cathedral is free to enter, there is a small fee to enter the museum and crypt. The latter contains the remains of numerous bishops and cardinals as well as the tombs of four governors of the colony of New France.
5. Visit the Lower Town Districts of Petit-Champlain and Place Royale
Located outside the old city walls and about 50 metres lower in elevation, are historic Petit-Champlain and Place Royale. You can take the funicular from Dufferin Terrace or use any one of the more than 20 staircases that link the upper and lower towns.
We descended using the Charles-Baillargé Stairs, which gave us a great view of the Quebec Seminary and led us along the waterway to Place Royale, where we enjoyed a delicious and surprisingly affordable lunch.
You can’t help but be captivated by the picture postcard perfection of Petit-Champlain. A narrow, cobblestone street lined by one-of-a-kind shops and restaurants, even if many are a bit touristy. As beautiful as it is in summer, it is simply stunning over the Christmas holiday period.
We climbed back to the upper town using the oldest stairs in the city, Escalier Casse-Cou or the Breakneck Stairs. Here you can get a fabulous photo with the entire Petit-Champlain as your backdrop.
6. Ride the Levis Ferry
Possibly the best views and the most attractive photos of Quebec City can be taken from the Qubec to Levis ferry.
For the most spectacular experience, take the ferry at sunset, then you can catch the city in the last of the daylight hours on your way out, and then be dazzled by the city lights on your return.
The ferry terminal is close to the Musée de la Civilisation in the lower city. The adult fare is $3.85 each way, and there are concessions for children and senior citizens. The trip takes 12 minutes, and it runs every 20-30 minutes.
While not exactly a secret, as you can see the ferry from many of the ramparts of Quebec City, most visitors miss this gem of an opportunity. I highly recommend it.
7. Walk the Promenade des Gouverneurs
At the far end of Dufferin Terrace is Promenade des Gouverneurs or Governors Promenade. It is a wide, elevated boardwalk that connects the old town to the Plains of Abraham and the Citadelle. The boardwalk wraps around the city fortifications and offer gorgeous views of the St Lawrence River.
Even though we were there during a packed weekend in August, the boardwalk was very quiet, with just a handful of locals jogging and a couple of other visitors. If you take the route from Dufferin Terrace, it is uphill, so you will have several stairs to climb albeit punctuated by lengthy flat stretches. Obviously, going the other way means descending down the stairs.
It’s 655 metres in length (about half a mile), so whichever way you take, it’s relatively gentle for most reasonably active people. The views and peaceful ambience are wonderful. Considering the crowds at either end, it’s amazing how quiet it was when we walked it.
8. Tour the Citadelle of Quebec
As you exit the Promenade des Gouverneurs, you will find yourself on the Plains of Abraham and next to the La Citadelle or Citadelle of Quebec. La Citadelle remains an active military installation and the secondary official residence of King Charles and the Governor General of Canada.
Located on the highest point in Quebec City, the first military building was constructed here in 1608. The current building was built by the British in the early 18th Century as a defence against invasion by the United States. You can take a tour and visit the museum, which is great value at $18 for adults, with lower rates for senior citizens and children. You can buy tickets, including for night tours during Halloween, online or in person at the Citadelle.
The Citadelle sits on the Plains of Abraham, which are now a sweeping park that it often used for events and concerts. The Battle of the Plains of Abraham, fought here in 1759, has turned out to be one of the most significant events in global history. Had the French prevailed that day not only would Canada and the USA be very different countries, but French would also be the primary language of North America and the de facto lingua franca of the world.
9. Discover Montcalm, the Quartier des Arts
The Montcalm area, the main arts district of Quebec City, is tucked immediately north of the Plains of Abraham and is often overlooked by first time visitors. It’s a vibrant and bohemian neighbourhood and feels far less touristy than the main sights that are located just 2 kms away. Here you’ll find some great accommodation choices at lower prices than those a 10-minute walk away.
While there is so much to stimulate your senses in Montcalm, the major attraction is the Musée National des Beaux-Arts du Québec a stunning modern art gallery. There is a fabulous permanent collection of modern art and there are always temporary exhibits to make a return visit worthwhile.
In July, Montcalm hosts the annual Festival d’été de Québec, possibly the most important and definitely the largest outdoor music festival in Canada. Headline acts over the years have included Elton John, The Rolling Stones, The Weekend and Lady Gaga.
10. Montmorency Falls
Our final recommendation, Montmorency Falls, is a little way outside of Quebec City. It’s a 12km or 10-minute drive or Uber ride. Alternatively, you can spend 18 minutes on the Line 800 bus. Either way, these astonishing falls are worth the time and cost. Montmorency Falls are 83m tall which makes them 30m higher than Niagara Falls something you will quickly grow tired of locals telling you!
If you have the time, you could easily spend an entire day here. You can take a cable car to a fabulous cliff-top vantage point and enjoy one of the many hikes around and alongside the falls. If you are feeling a little more adventurous, there are three ferrata routes (iron walkways) and a fabulous zipline experience.
You get great views from above the falls from the suspension bridge, a wonderful if slightly vertigo inducing experience.
If you are in good shape, how about the 487-step panoramic staircase that runs alongside the falls? The falls also provide another reason to go back to Quebec City in the winter when freezing spray, called pain de sucre (sugarloaf), is sent up by crashing water and builds up into a mountain of white ice at the base of the falls.
Quebec City is so different culturally from the rest of North America. It’s a tourist friendly city where visitors are welcomed and there is so much to do. Everyone should go at least twice, once in summer and then again in winter. I can’t wait for our return during the winter one day very soon.
Author
Nick Abbott
Hi, I’m Nick. Visiting foreign countries has been an important part of my life since my parents moved to Kano in Nigeria in 1977. Since then, as both a military officer and in later jobs I have enjoyed the huge privilege of being exposed to many different countries and cultures.
I am delighted to be able to support my wife Monique and Yes2Yolo primarily by contributing travel articles, providing editing and proof-reading services and being a general sounding board.
